Hiroshima

Hiroshima is primarily known for having an atomic bomb dropped on it by the USA army in August 1945. At the end of 1945 it is thought that the bomb had killed 140,000 (+/-10,000) people. In school I’d learnt about World War I and II and visited areas in France and Belgium and got a better understanding about what actually happened during the World Wars. As I’m in Japan and have no fixed timeline as to where I want to be and when, other than a flight to Vietnam the week after next and to end up Egypt and Jordan by the end of the year maybe, I thought I’d come here to get a better understanding of why the atomic bomb was dropped, and how the city was effected as a result of it.

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I’ve been staying in hostels in Japan, which are more often than not capsule style. It’s like living in a drawer.
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Bento Box on the train up to Hiroshima

Upon arriving, I got to the hostel before it started pouring with rain. I’d given up my seat on the tram to an elderly woman and couldn’t help but think if she grew up in the area, what affect the atomic bomb that was dropped would have on her, her family and the people she knew. I ditched my backpack at the hostel and headed for the Atomic Bomb Dome, having a look around before heading to the Peace Memorial Museum.

The museum went into great depth about the events that occurred both before and after the bomb was dropped, and the effects that it had on the local people, families and area. One thing that really surprised me was how severely injured people who were as far away as 9km from the bomb were, some dying from the radiation that they were exposed to that day, or by the following week.

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After being in the museum, I went back to walk around the Dome, and whilst I’m only 24 and arrived in Hiroshima a few hours before, I got a sense of how much the area must have changed in that one second when the bomb exploded. The Peace Park had once been a busy street but now serves a purpose to inform people as to what atomic weapons are capable of, as well as the upsets and damage that they can inflict.

Today, I started off at Miyajima Island which is known for having a shrine and deer on the loose, and with my Japanese Rail ticket I could ride the ferry for free. I didn’t really find that there was too much to do – I chose not to ride the cable car up to the top of the mountain as I didn’t really fancy that, and I had a deer try to eat my hand as I’d just eaten a pasty. There’s pastries known as Momiji Cakes on the island, flavoured I think with maple syrup from the island and I even saw some Kit Kats in that flavour too.

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It started pouring with rain so I decided to get the ferry back and go to Osaka Castle, around 50 minutes on the tram. Spent an hour or so there – there’s a museum inside and a lookout on the top, though I wouldn’t lose any sleep if I’d missed out on the museum.

Tomorrow, I’m still staying in Hiroshima for the night, but I’m thinking of heading to Nagasaki as I’ve done pretty much all there is to do in Hiroshima and have paid for my bed for the night. After Nagasaki will come Osaka, then I’m back in the Fuji area, though I have really researched being in that area this time. After Fuji will be Tokyo, I think with a bit too long a stay, but I have a few options for day trips.

Fukuoka

Last year when I flew to Japan I got taken aside by a customs officer, shown a section from a folder in English asking if I had any narcotics, gold bars, wads of cash, etc. on me. This time was no different; I got my passport stamped, picked up my backpack from the carousel, went to get my passport checked to leave the airport and I got stopped. The Botswana stamp on my passport raised concern so after having all my luggage and phone swabbed, looked at, being presented the English page of a folder with pictures of contraband,  and questioned about my time in Japan, why I’m there and what I’m doing, I was free to go.

Upon landing in Fukuoka I felt excited to come back to Japan; I hadn’t been a huge fan of China, and in Seoul I felt as though I was dossing as opposed to travelling. Japan feels familiar to me as I’ve been here before and I’ve really planned the next two weeks. Last time I was in the country however, I had worked for around 20 days with just one day off on day five or six, and the night prior to leaving I went out and the hangover wrote me off for about a week. This time, I’m really going to make the most of my stay.

Travel days I try not to do a lot; I use them to Google what’s about and to be a grown up. Last night I went to some Yatai stalls – there’s a few in a row next to the river here, which is basically an outdoor restaurant with a few seats. I opted for a beer to celebrate being in Japan, and a few meat skewers. One of the options I went for was just chicken skin on a stick which was glorious – if the world needs more of one thing, let that be bbq’d chicken skin.

Today I woke up at a semi-reasonable time and made it to the reclining Buddha, 20 minutes from the city on the train. I have been trying to not rely on my phone so much but it is so much easier just to Google what platform I need to be on when I cannot read the language. The Buddha is in quite a large area with a few statues, taking about an hour to look around the site before heading back into the city.

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Once back in the city I went to the Ramen Stadium – basically a food court of ramen restaurants, and you don’t need to talk to anyone to order. It’s potentially one of my new happy places. I’m aware and very OK with the fact that my diet for the next two weeks will consist of ramen, so I went back there for dinner too. During the day I went to a couple of temples and also had a nap before going out for a walk. One temple was pretty impressive and the other not so much, but no photos allowed.

Tomorrow I’m off to use my Japanese Rail pass for the first time. I’ve really enjoyed today in Fukuoka, and excited for the next couple of weeks ahead of me.

Seoul

I was really excited to leave China after being fed up with the humidity, crowds, pushing and hearing people clear their throats out. The reason why I’d chose to visit Seoul was to visit the Demilitarized Zone and the Joint Security Area (known as the DMZ & JSA).

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My first full day was the tour to the DMZ and JSA. Originally I’d wanted to go to a couple of museums and such to learn about the situation between the North and South, however due to my organisational skills (or perhaps lack of) I could only get a tour on my first day. A lot of it you aren’t allowed to take pictures.

After an hour or so in a bus from Seoul, the first stop was the Third Tunnel. The South had discovered by chance that the North had been digging a tunnel in addition to the two they had already dealt with prior to attack the South. The North had apparently been painting the walls black, saying that they had been mining for coal. Just outside of here were a DMZ sign and a memorial with people posing for pictures which reminded me of going to Auschwitz, with people posing for pictures in front of the gates. The Korean War lead to over three million deaths, resulting in a torn nation. I may sound like a miserable fucker, but I think there’s a time and a place for tourist pictures. With that said, I did take a selfie later on that day with North Korea in the background as it’s the only chance I’ll ever get to do that.

Our next stop was lunch, in a building next to the toll/border going to North Korea. We got told basically not to mess around and to keep away as we were being recorded on CCTV by the North. Then, we went to a viewpoint that had binoculars to overlook the propaganda village. The village was built to give the impression to the South and rest of the world that everything in the North is fine. It was also very touristy there, with a few tour buses which I hadn’t been expecting.

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The view into North Korea

 

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Our next stop was the train station, from where tourists can come to the North from the South and have a tour that is similar, with very different information given to them. It wasn’t really anything too amazing, just a train station with the Korean military making sure that people weren’t pissing around there.

The JSA was our last stop, with an armed member of the Armed Forces from the USA as our tour guide. We had to sign a bit of paper literally signing our lives away, to behave in a way in which the UN can keep it’s integrity and not to point or do anything that the North could do to use as propaganda. We got taken to an area in which we could see North Korea, then taken into a building that technically crossed the border to put us in North Korea.

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Looking onto the North beyond the blue buildings
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North Korea to the left, South Korea to the right

After, we went back to Seoul – I slept more or less the whole way back.

The next day was OK – I decided that I’d give Gyeongbokgung Palace a visit, and whilst it’s nice to look around and everything, I don’t think I really care about palaces. After, I chose to go to Seodaemun Prison – a place where the Japanese would imprison Koreans who wanted Korea to be liberated. It was interesting, and I did notice that they said that the prison was in operation until the late 1980s, though not a lot was mentioned about what the prison was used for after Korea was liberated.

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One of the rooms in the prison, showcasing just a handful of people who died in order to liberate Korea,a majority of them had been tortured.

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The prison reminded me of both Fremantle Prison in Western Australia and Dacau Camp in Munich. I cannot for the life of me understand why parents take their cretins to places like this – whilst it’s part of the Korean history, a lot of children were just pissing around.

The next day I chose to go to the Bukchon Hanok village, styled in the same way that the city was centuries ago. It did piss it down, but luckily I had borrowed an umbrella from the hostel, then I went to the Korean War Museum which is closed on Tuesdays, though they do have an outside area with the warplanes and tanks used in the war. From there I went to Gangnam to see what the fuss was about, then back to the hostel.

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One of the more popular drinks in Korea is Soju, which tastes pretty much like alcohol unless you get the flavoured one for au$2 each from 7-11 or any convenience store. I’ve had them nightly in Korea, the flavoured ones are great, but when someone starts talking to me after I’ve drank one I have to sneak off to bed.

During my time in hostels I’ve heard a lot of people say how much they love Seoul. It seems like a place that you can get a lot out of if you’re willing to be social. For me, I’m aware that I am most likely on track to be a cat woman, and whilst I like to have a drink in the hostel I don’t really like to stay up until 7am with people I’ve just met. Had I not been alone, I would’ve had some Korean BBQ and probably gone to see a K-Pop concert. I can’t say that I wouldn’t ever visit Seoul again, but I’d consider a visit if in Asia and with company.

Shanghai

Shanghai has been my final destination in China – the prior three cities I’ve visited because there were places that I’d wanted to visit, but I chose Shanghai as I just needed to fly out.

At the ripe old age of 24, what I was most excited coming here to do was to get my back sorted out. Getting here via a 14 hour train ride here obviously didn’t help me much, and I’ve been having pain for my whole stay here which I think/hope is just my back settling down. As a result, I’ve tried to rest – each day here I’ve tried to do something, but my back is my main priority.

My first full morning I spent in the Museum of Urban Planning. There’s a to-scale replica of the city, updated on a monthly basis. There’s also a photography exhibition in the building which was worth a visit too.

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During the evening I went on a food tour which was pretty interesting. Our first stop served various kinds of pork belly, as well as a plate of noodles there having picked up some Chinese burgers prior. Everything tasted good, but I have eaten a lot of similar things before. Then we went to a seafood place and I was the first to volunteer to try some jellyfish – it tops the list of the worst things I’ve ever tried. There were a few more dishes, but I wasn’t really too fond of them.

Afterwards, we visited a Szechuan place where we had a selection of noodles, dumplings, some veggies and rabbits head, and then went off to go get some dumplings. Overall, I think my favourite stop would’ve been the dumpling place, though I was pretty full and trying to forget about the jellyfish.

Since that, I’ve not done a lot. Yesterday I went to a propaganda museum which displayed China’s political history from around World War II to the 1970s. I’m not very well informed about Chinese history, but a fair few things did start to make sense. Today, I went to the Yu Garden which was nice for a walk, but I just want to rest my back.

Tomorrow I’m off to Korea. It would’ve been nice to be able to explore Shanghai a bit more, but I’m not going to lose any sleep about it as I have to look after myself.

Chengdu

It was a six hour train ride from Xi’an to arrive in Chengdu. Like both Beijing and Xi’an, I’d come here specifically to see something, with a full day or two to explore the city.

My first full day here I wanted to sleep in. After leaving the hostel at midday, I went to Wen Shu Monastery, which is one of the more peaceful places that I’ve visited in China so far. There’s not a lot to do there besides have a look around, but still took an hour and a half or so to get around.

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After leaving the monastery I popped into somewhere for a quick lunch and had a great portion of wontons for under £2, then went to the Tibetan Quarter. There’s a temple/shrine there but I wasn’t overly fascinated with it.

All of the research centres for Pandas are in Chengdu, so this morning I went to the one that specialises in breeding them. I had booked a tour as I didn’t really know how to get there, and accidentally ended up booking a private tour. It was quite handy having the private tour as my guide knew exactly where to go and how to beat the crowds – her guess as to how many people were there was 30,000+.

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They eventually release the pandas back into the wild, however, they are so used to depending on humans that they have been known to not want to feed themselves. As a result have they to go back into care. The reason why they’re inside is because they are not a fan of the heat, and are instead in an air conditioned room. I enjoyed the tour, though I feel as though if there was no queue I could’ve gone around the centre in 45 minutes, rather than two and a half hours.

Today, I’m just being a grown up. The wifi in the hostel is surprisingly decent so I booked up a tour to go to India at the start of October, as well as my travels up until then. The visa for India was a right pain in the arse to apply for, taking around three hours as the website is just crap, but in between now and then I’ll be in Japan, Vietnam and Malaysia.

Tomorrow, I’m getting the train to Shanghai. I didn’t think it through properly and as a result am spending over 14 hours on a train. I’ll be taking it as an opportunity to catch up on the reading that I haven’t kept up with as I have several books on my kindle that need a read.

Xi’an

After visiting the Temple of Heaven and Forbidden City in Beijing, I’d decided that for the time that I’m in China I’d prioritise visiting the places that I visit cities for. I don’t want to feel obliged to visit absolutely everywhere and have the back condition that I’ve had to flare up again as a result.

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The main reason I visited Xi’an was to see the Terracotta Warriors which I posted about yesterday, and they were great to see. They’re expected to be fully restored in around 60 years time, so it’s good to be able to see the work in progress to get an understanding of the work the archaeologists are putting in.

After having spent more or less the past two and a half years living in a hostel-like setting, I thought I’d seen it all, and if I hadn’t seen it then it wouldn’t surprise me. Well, I got into my room, unpacked, and heard a knock on the door. For two nights I ended up sharing a dorm with four ten-year-olds, and after complaining about getting kept/woken up I ended up changing dorms and getting a free beer, though the beer wasn’t exactly worth it.

The day after I visited the Warriors I tried to wing it but I didn’t see too much, so I went off to the market in the Muslim Quarter, which is overpriced but you can find most of the food that this famous from this area. This includes the Chinese Beef Burger, Pork pastries (rolled with garlic, spring onion and lard) like a cinnamon bun and pressed which are pretty tasty, cold noodles with sesame and meat on a skewer seasoned with cumin seeds.

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Yesterday I wanted to visit the wall of the city and cycle around it but my back flared up – turns out that going to a nightclub with a bouncing floor the night before was not my finest idea. I went out for a walk and chilled in the hostel, then went out during the evening to see the wall lit up.

Overall, I thought Xi’an was worth a bit of extra time after visiting the Terracotta Warriors. There’s a couple of things that I wanted to do, but I have to think of my back in the long-term so I can save myself for places like India, Jordan and Egypt.

Terracotta Warriors

On Tuesday, I went on a tour organised by the hostel that I’m staying at to see the Terracotta Warriors around an hour and a halfs drive from Xi’an – included with an English speaking tour guide.

The site was discovered when a farmer was digging to make a well for water in the 1970s and the warriors have since been dug up by archaeologists, pieced back together with glue and put on display. It is thought that the collection dates back around 2200 years ago, storing more than 8000 soldiers as well as horses.

As it’s the middle of summer it was forecast to be 38 degrees, unsurprisingly it was very hot and extremely sweaty, but luckily it was not as packed as anticipated.

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Beijing

After upwards of 20 hours of travel, I arrived in Beijing. I found the hostel and went for a bit of a walk around.

My first full day I wanted to go to the Forbidden City, having queued up (I use the word queue lightly) to get through security, the tickets for the day had sold out. Instead, I went to the Temple of Heaven, but it was so crowded I just wanted to nap. After an hour and a half there I went back to the hostel to catch up on my sleep, as travelling every day since I’d left Australia was something that I needed to recover from.

The following day I made it into the Forbidden City, with what seemed to 80,000 others at the same time. I used an audio guide as it was something that I wanted to take the time to enjoy, but couldn’t go ten minutes without being pushed or navigate my way through hundreds of people, and I ended up wanting to get it over and done with which was a shame. Ironically, there’s a temple there called the Temple of Earthly Tranquility – nothing about being there was tranquil.

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During the evening, I went on a food tour with the company Untour with five others. The first stop was a Mongolian Hot Pot place, where the locals were surprised to see a group of foreign people. It was mainly vegetarian, though we had some mutton which was alright. We then moved onto a rice wine bar after where we had a paddle of six shots, including two of a regular batch, two rose flavour, peach and a flower native to China. I’d be concerned coming to Asia that my next good glass of wine would probably be in England, but the rice wine was really good. First world problem, I know.

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After, we had some Biang Biang Noodles (Biang is supposedly the sound made when the noodles are hit on the work bench whilst they are being pulled, but it just sounds like a louder version of when you drop your phone on your head.) This was the best meal of the tour – noodles with pork, chilli, tomato, chilli oil and I think some sesame oil too.

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After the noodles we were taken to eat a donkey burger – layered filo pastry with donkey meat inside, which actually tasted like beef, then we were taken for some Chinese chicken wings. I really enjoyed the tour and eating some food I wouldn’t otherwise have eaten.

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To finish off my time in Beijing, I went to the Great Wall, which I posted about earlier in the week. Overall, I wasn’t a fan of Beijing – it was far too crowded for me, and I felt as though I’d rather spend my money later on during the trip than to spend it in Beijing and not enjoy it because of the crowds. With that said, it is an easy city to navigate and the Great Wall was definitely worthwhile.

The Great Wall of China

On Sunday I went on a hiking trip to the Great Wall, or as Karl Pilkington once said “it’s not a great wall, it’s an alright wall. It’s the Alright Wall of China.” It was better than alright.

The visibility wasn’t great, though it meant that it wasn’t sunny as it was quite a difficult walk. Some of it was sloped steep enough to warrant me climbing up on my hands and feet – unfortunately, no photographic evidence as that would be quite amusing. Some of the wall is original and actually quite dangerous to climb on, so it’s surprising that tourists are let loose on there.

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Zimbabwe, Botswana and South Africa: My Final Thoughts

I booked this trip in December last year and I think this is the trip that I’ve had the most questions about – like travelling through Europe, Asia and Australia is somewhere people would expect me to go, but not Africa.

Honestly, the trip was a lot of driving hours to places to spend around half a day doing an activity. Putting the tents up and down almost every day didn’t take too long but was a pain in the arse. With that said, what we did on the trip and what we got out of it was fantastic. I’ve been up close to the animals, learnt a lot about them and what measures are being put into place to try and prevent the rhinos from becoming extinct.

For me, the highlights were Hwange National Park; watching the elephants cross the road in particular, the day spent at Matobo National Park and the safari trip through Kruger National Park. One night in Kruger all but three of us had gone to bed, so I came up with the idea of finding lion sound effects on YouTube and parading it around our area of the campsite. I don’t think anyone was fooled, especially with us laughing, but it was funny nonetheless.

I’d love to visit Africa again. The group I joined were halfway through their tour and had been to Okavango Delta in Botswana, judging by their photos, videos and stories it was fantastic so I’d love to go. I’m intending to go to Egypt at some point this year, but I’d like to work something out starting in Botswana or Zimbabwe going into Botswana, and the surrounding area. This will have to wait a few years, until I work and save money to spend on another trip again.

After Africa comes China. I’ve never been and am not too sure what to expect, but it should be fun.